Another Detour

For the better part of this year so far the plan has been to complete our circumnavigation in 2016, by crossing both the Pacific and Indian Oceans.

The Pacific crossing was a peaceful time of reflection with little distraction - 5 weeks of thinking, dreaming and talking at length about what we want out of life, both together and individually, as well as our immediate and long term plans.

One afternoon in the cockpit, during one of these discussions, I asked Rufus “What would you do if, when we arrive in Marquises, we get an email with our dream job offer? Would you take it?” His immediate response was “No. We are committed to completing this circumnavigation this year. Absolutely not.” I then replied “Good, because that was a test and you passed with flying colours!”

To give you a bit of background, it was more my idea to complete the circumnavigation this year and it took months of convincing to get Rufus on board (excuse the pun). As a sailor and master of your own small, older, basic vessel with limited funds it is a daunting task facing a long crossing like the one we just did and then the trans-Indian which is known as the worst, most uncomfortable, leg for 99% of circumnavigators. During the Pacific crossing this changed and Rufus finally came round and started getting really excited about my plan.

Rufus and I had made sure that we had enough in our kitty to complete the trip this year and also time each leg it so that we would be in the right places in the right seasons for the right winds to get us where we need to be.

If you know us at all you will know that there seems to always be a big difference between what we plan and what we end up doing. In the big scheme of things though, we keep going in the same general direction even though there are quite a few detours and, to be honest, we enjoy the surprise turns in the road because it keeps things interesting and we enjoy change.

So to cut a long story short, when we arrived in Marquises we opened our mail boxes to find the email we never thought we would receive at this stage of our journey: our dream job offer. And to our surprise and delight we accepted! We learned a lot from our last working experience on a super yacht and so we would not go lightly into a decision like this. Thankfully this literally ticked pretty much all our boxes for the perfect job:

-       Great owner(s) who we know, have mutual respect and get on well with. Working for and with good people is probably the biggest factor for us.

-       A boat that we can run just the two of us, no other crew dynamics to deal with.

-       An active international itinerary. 

-     A brand new build sailboat, and a design we know and love.

-       And the list goes on!

So with great excitement we accepted the new positions and within a week we had put Melody on the hard in Hiva-Oa, winterised her and booked our tickets back to SA (we wanted to see family and had to get new passports as we had run out of space for visas and literally could not travel anymore!). After a month, mostly with family and doing admin for our next adventure, we flew to Ft Lauderdale and joined our new boat at the start of July, a 2016 58ft Leopard catamaran!

kayaking on our last sailing weekend with Melody

view from the deserted little beach we anchored off

Rufus putting his gymnastic training to good use

coconut water goodness!

our FAVOURITE fruit - pamplemousse (grapefruit) which grows everywhere on the islands

driving to the farm on a winter's weekend, one of our first destinations during our SA trip

the family farm on the West Coast

view from our stoep

packing up all our personal belognings stored in our tiny farm cottage, where we fell in love and where Rufus proposed more than 8yrs ago

family dinner with Rufus' dad, Boris, and Cherie at Myoga Restaurant

our unfaltering ever supportive dream team: Shawn and Karien

coffee break in Woodstock at Tribe

reunited with our old Melody crew :) Photo credit Vivian Botha

Betty's Bay with our dear friends Sonet & Arnold

one of the views from the beautiful new home of our talented friends Evi & Jochem

Evi's outdoor artwork

Rufus and Jochem relaxing in front of the fire, overlooking Yzerfontein beach

our gorgeous room in the guest wing of the house

reunited with  our baby boy Jack for the first time since Zambia!!

delicious traditional Peruvian dishes at Charango Grill and Bar in Cape Town

my best friend Diana's BEAUTIFUL healthy baby boy, Axel

Vivian's article on our team's journey with Melody in the first edition of  Ambassadeur Joernaal (more info in a future post)

family farewell at the airport with Cherie

brand new MAXI passport for all the many countries we will continue to travel to!

Hamad Int Airport in Qatar

flying over the ice lakes of Southern Greenland

testing the massive new sails

finally at our destination: Ft Lauderdale, Florida and our shiny new catamaran!

Rufus and the owner enjoying the view from the flybridge on our first sea trial

Cruising Bocas with Babilé

Last week we arrived in Panama, after 7 days sailing down from Guatemala. We dropped anchor in front of Isla Colón which is part of the Bocas del Toro Archipelago, off the Caribbean coast of Panama.

To our absolute delight, the same day we arrived, our favourite cruising friends Natali and João, of S/Y Babile, appeared in our anchorage - reunited after almost 2 years!! We spent a few days anchored there, resting and exploring the island, enjoying the restaurants and bars of the little surf town.

As usual, we started getting itchy feet quite quickly and decided to head off to the surrounding, more remote, islands with Babile and another French boat, S/Y Spip. We did a day sail to the Zapatilla Islands and from there to Bluefield Lagoon where we did an overland trail to the beautiful beaches of Kusapin, a well known surf spot, in the Comarca Ngäbe-Buglé Indian Reserve.

We filled our days with spearfishing, beach barbecues, swimming, walking in the tropical forests, surfing and enjoying time with our friends over good food and local beer.

Next stop is the mainland city of Colón where we will await our turn to go through the Panama canal!

seeing our favourite Brazilian and Portuguese friends, Natali and João of S/Y Babilé, for the first time after 2 years!

seeing our favourite Brazilian and Portuguese friends, Natali and João of S/Y Babilé, for the first time after 2 years!

anchorage in front of Bocas Town, Isla Colón

hosting a reunion breakfast on Melody

hosting a reunion breakfast on Melody

one of the waterfront restaurants in Bocas towm

one of the waterfront restaurants in Bocas towm

interesting characters at the Kraken restaurant 

there are lots of places to stay in Isla Colón

on our way to the dinghy dock at Hotel Olas, after provisioning for our trip out to the other islands

before the serious sunburn...

en route to Cayos Zapatilla 

en route to Cayos Zapatilla 

lunch making under way

lunch making under way

lazy face

Babilé anchoring in Bluefield Lagoon

Babilé anchoring in Bluefield Lagoon

sunrise over the lagoon

sunrise over the lagoon

weirdos on the beach

weirdos on the beach

Portugal, Brazil, South Africa and France brought together by a beach barbecue in Panama

Portugal, Brazil, South Africa and France brought together by a beach barbecue in Panama

grilling João's catch

grilling João's catch

our makeshift "table" courtesy of Babilé

Natali's delicious octopus salad, caught the previous day

Natali's delicious octopus salad, caught the previous day

barbecues and good food always bring people together

barbecues and good food always bring people together

Where are we now?

Hello, friends!

We are on the move again... and yes, I am sorry we have not been keeping better contact re. our movements. I have been struggling with updating the blog chronologically (as in going back 6 months and doing each post individually) vs. doing one post with a summary and bring you all up to date with where we are at right now - literally and figuratively. 

Over the last few of days I have tried the chronological option but it's taking so long, especially with the mostly slow and unreliable connections we have here in Central America. So, the obvious choice now is to do a roundup of the last 6 months and then I guess I can elaborate on each happening as time and wifi allow.

While still in Belize, working for Belize Saling Vacations, we received the phenomenal opportunity to star in a few ads for the launch of the new Kia Rio, which was shot on Jeju Island, in South Korea. When we returned we spent some time in Guatemala travelling and working on Melody in preparation to sell her and start working in the superyacht industry. While we were in Guatemala, Rufus had the opportunity to crew on a delivery of Phaedo, the Gunboat 66 that had just won the 2015 Transpac race, from Hawaii to Newport Beach. While Ruf was away I helped out with the BSV charter boats in the marina where we were staying, keeping an eye on them and doing some work on Melody as well.

Not long after Rufus' return from Phaedo we received a job offer on a private super yacht. Within 36hrs we moved Melody from one marina to another, hauled her out onto the hard stand, packed and boxed all our personal items to be shipped, put her up for sale and left for Newport, Rhode Island to join our new yacht!

We worked as 1st Mate (Rufus) and Chef/Stew (me) as part of 4 crew on 109ft sail yacht. We spent 3 months in the US and then delivered the boat south, to St Maarten, in December. We hosted the French owner and his family over December and early January, sailing the BVIs and St Barts for New Years. We returned to SXM in January and after a lot of thought, careful consideration and detailed financial calculations, we decided to return to Melody and complete our circumnavigation this year.

On February 7th we flew from St Maarten to Guatemala City to start the next chapter in our sailing expedition around the globe. Two weeks in Guatemala were spent cleaning Melody up (she took a bit of a beating during the rainy season in Guatemala) and of course, as always, doing the necessary maintenance and a few more upgrades!

An extra solar panel, new shade covers, a new inverter and one hardcore industrial sewing machine later we left Guatemala and sailed south, for 7 days, to Bocas del Toro off the coast of Panama.

So that's where we are right now: anchored in front of Bocas Town, in Panama, reuniting with special cruising friends and planning the next leg of our trip through the Panama Canal and into the Pacific!

July 2015: saying goodbye in Guatemala before Rufus left to Hawaii, to crew on the Gunboat 66 Phaedo

August 2015: Julia & Flo, friends from S/Y Tun

Melody on the hard in NanaJuana Marina, RioDulce

Fronteras, Guatemala

fixing travel bags for the trip to our new job in the US

Tracie & Steve from S/Y Saga Sea

September 2015: aboard S/Y Aventura in Newport, RI, as crew

Aventura's 44m air draft

Adrian takes over my galley and makes us dinner :)

one of the mansions on the Cliff Walk in Newport

Rufus helping the Doyle team to fit and test the new sails

this is what a $200,000.00 new custom mainsail from Doyle looks like

146ft in the air, at the top of the mast

aerial view of Aventura as Rufus keeps an eye onme from the bow seat below

December 2015: Aventura under way on delivery to St Maarten in the Caribbean

Engineer, Captain and Mate considering sail configs on the delivery from Newport RI to SXM

our view in the BVIs

Jan 2016: the boys doing chores on charter, while boss explored St Barths

Captain taking us through the bridge in St Maarten

Tweedle Dum and Tweedle Dee - also known as Adrian and Rufus

exiting the lagoon on the Dutch side of St Maarten

view of Fort Louis Marina from the fort on the hill

Feb 2016: one of our last days in SXM, at Grand Anse beach

Feb 2016: back in Guatemala, at NanaJuana Marina, making new floor boards for the master cabin

fitting some of our new shade covers

servicing the genoa furler before we set sail

leaving Livingstone in Guatemala, southbound to Bocas del Toro, Panama

this was Ruf's first real catch after the tuna off the SA coast in 2012

this guy hitched a ride and even came inside the boat to say hi

my watch spot when we weren't beating to windward...

March 2016: blogging in Bocas :)

Charter Life

The day we arrived back in Belize, after the Caribbean Sea crossing, we got the news that Rufus' mom was ill. None of us knew at that stage that she had Leukemia but, over the next few days during the prep for our next charter, it escalated from being "tired and needing blood transfusions" to "full blown, advanced AML" and emergency prep for chemo.

There is always a time of stress before a charter begins, the last few hours to get everything perfect before the guests arrive (which isn't so bad actually, unless you are a perfectionist...) and then there is the wait to meet our new guests and gauge their "vibe" in the first hour or so, which is extremely important as it sets the tone for the rest of the charter.

This specific charter was for a couple, Ken and Elizabeth, on our company's smallest boat, Sea Dale. She is a 38ft Leopard and we are rather fond of this boat, not just because she is South African designed and built, but because she is a great boat to sail and live on. The other bonus is that we get to host mostly couples on her, because she is smaller, which means the charter is more personal and you almost always end up becoming friends. 

We collected our guests in Belize City, at our base in Cucumber Marina, and sailed 6 nights down south to Placencia. We were obviously more stressed and distracted when this charter started, because of what was happening with Ma back home, but after a few minutes with Ken and Elizabeth, discussing their love of good food, world travel and music we immediately relaxed and we knew this was going to be a great few days ahead.

We had so much fun exploring the southern islands, which Rufus and I hadn't yet had the chance to visit in such perfect weather, we enjoyed great meals together (I am always more relaxed and creative when our guests love food as much as we do!), snorkelling, exploring mangroves and deserted islands, dinghy rides, swimming, photography, music and great conversation.

During those seven days we made the decision to fly back to South Africa, immediately after the charter was done. We want to thank Ken and Elizabeth for being such a great couple to share that charter with. They didn't know about Ma until the end of it, but by just being the relaxed, positive, happy, inspiring people that they are they helped us to take our mind off things back home and zero'd our work stress :)

Just to show you how perfect the weather and destinations were (and to make you a teensy bit jealous) here are some photos of that route - no editing/filters/photoshopping whatsoever. Enjoy!

this friendly "little" guy followed us around the island (Ranguana Caye) and was quite keen on having his photo taken. Did I mention that I haven't edited these photos at all? - not even cropped them... That is the actual colour of the water. In every photo - no tricks.

Ranguana Caye's beach

all he needs is his goggles and his GoPro

Rufus scouting good snorkel spots for Ken & Elizabeth 

exploring Laughing Bird Caye's snorkeling spots

pano of Goff's Caye

Goffs Caye

Lapa on Laughing Bird Caye

the view of Laughing Bird Caye from Sea Dale's helm

Ken and Elizabeth kayak back home to Sea Dale 

Ruf resting after a long day of sailing, snorkeling and exploring

Sea Dale anchored off Ranguana Caye

view of Sea Dale from the restaurant on Ranguana Caye

my second time on a SUP...

Ruf exploring the beaches of Ranguana Caye

a private shady spot on Ranguana Caye's beach