Another Detour

For the better part of this year so far the plan has been to complete our circumnavigation in 2016, by crossing both the Pacific and Indian Oceans.

The Pacific crossing was a peaceful time of reflection with little distraction - 5 weeks of thinking, dreaming and talking at length about what we want out of life, both together and individually, as well as our immediate and long term plans.

One afternoon in the cockpit, during one of these discussions, I asked Rufus “What would you do if, when we arrive in Marquises, we get an email with our dream job offer? Would you take it?” His immediate response was “No. We are committed to completing this circumnavigation this year. Absolutely not.” I then replied “Good, because that was a test and you passed with flying colours!”

To give you a bit of background, it was more my idea to complete the circumnavigation this year and it took months of convincing to get Rufus on board (excuse the pun). As a sailor and master of your own small, older, basic vessel with limited funds it is a daunting task facing a long crossing like the one we just did and then the trans-Indian which is known as the worst, most uncomfortable, leg for 99% of circumnavigators. During the Pacific crossing this changed and Rufus finally came round and started getting really excited about my plan.

Rufus and I had made sure that we had enough in our kitty to complete the trip this year and also time each leg it so that we would be in the right places in the right seasons for the right winds to get us where we need to be.

If you know us at all you will know that there seems to always be a big difference between what we plan and what we end up doing. In the big scheme of things though, we keep going in the same general direction even though there are quite a few detours and, to be honest, we enjoy the surprise turns in the road because it keeps things interesting and we enjoy change.

So to cut a long story short, when we arrived in Marquises we opened our mail boxes to find the email we never thought we would receive at this stage of our journey: our dream job offer. And to our surprise and delight we accepted! We learned a lot from our last working experience on a super yacht and so we would not go lightly into a decision like this. Thankfully this literally ticked pretty much all our boxes for the perfect job:

-       Great owner(s) who we know, have mutual respect and get on well with. Working for and with good people is probably the biggest factor for us.

-       A boat that we can run just the two of us, no other crew dynamics to deal with.

-       An active international itinerary. 

-     A brand new build sailboat, and a design we know and love.

-       And the list goes on!

So with great excitement we accepted the new positions and within a week we had put Melody on the hard in Hiva-Oa, winterised her and booked our tickets back to SA (we wanted to see family and had to get new passports as we had run out of space for visas and literally could not travel anymore!). After a month, mostly with family and doing admin for our next adventure, we flew to Ft Lauderdale and joined our new boat at the start of July, a 2016 58ft Leopard catamaran!

kayaking on our last sailing weekend with Melody

view from the deserted little beach we anchored off

Rufus putting his gymnastic training to good use

coconut water goodness!

our FAVOURITE fruit - pamplemousse (grapefruit) which grows everywhere on the islands

driving to the farm on a winter's weekend, one of our first destinations during our SA trip

the family farm on the West Coast

view from our stoep

packing up all our personal belognings stored in our tiny farm cottage, where we fell in love and where Rufus proposed more than 8yrs ago

family dinner with Rufus' dad, Boris, and Cherie at Myoga Restaurant

our unfaltering ever supportive dream team: Shawn and Karien

coffee break in Woodstock at Tribe

reunited with our old Melody crew :) Photo credit Vivian Botha

Betty's Bay with our dear friends Sonet & Arnold

one of the views from the beautiful new home of our talented friends Evi & Jochem

Evi's outdoor artwork

Rufus and Jochem relaxing in front of the fire, overlooking Yzerfontein beach

our gorgeous room in the guest wing of the house

reunited with  our baby boy Jack for the first time since Zambia!!

delicious traditional Peruvian dishes at Charango Grill and Bar in Cape Town

my best friend Diana's BEAUTIFUL healthy baby boy, Axel

Vivian's article on our team's journey with Melody in the first edition of  Ambassadeur Joernaal (more info in a future post)

family farewell at the airport with Cherie

brand new MAXI passport for all the many countries we will continue to travel to!

Hamad Int Airport in Qatar

flying over the ice lakes of Southern Greenland

testing the massive new sails

finally at our destination: Ft Lauderdale, Florida and our shiny new catamaran!

Rufus and the owner enjoying the view from the flybridge on our first sea trial

Family Farm Life in Costa Rica

And we are BACK! If you follow our page on Facebook you will know that my MacBook charger took a walk in Bocas del Toro so my photo editing/blogging station has been down for a while. Luckily Panama mainland is not short on malls and electronics shops so I finally found a replacement and I am back online!

The last post was on our overland trip to Nicaragua and Costa Rica. We traveled by water taxi (from Bocas del Toro Islands to Panama mainland) and bus from Panama to Costa Rica and on to Nicaragua and back again. In Costa Rica we stayed with friends in the area of Tarbacca, just outside of San José. 

What I didn't mention previously is that the main reason we decided to take this trip now was to visit these friends, since we were so close and we weren't sure when we would be back in this part of the world. We had originally met the Jensen family when we hosted them on a sailing charter in Belize the previous year. We got on so well with them and stayed in contact ever since. They had offered to host us if we ever visited Costa Rica and so we took them up on the offer!

Andreas is from Denmark and Andrea is from the US, of Columbian and German descent, with two beautiful adopted daughters from Columbia. The family relocated from the US to Costa Rica some years ago and have been living on their lifestyle farm in the hills of Tarbacca ever since. They have horses, goats, pigs, sheep, geese, ducks, chickens, turkeys and they grow their own coffee! 

Andreas and Andrea hand make a variety of delicious cheeses from their own goat's milk and from time to time their own pork and lamb. They spoiled us daily with delicious meals from mostly their own produce - cheeses, meat and veggies - as well as including us in all the daily happenings of the farm and family life. 

We rode horses in the mountains, witnessed their stallion mating (which is a lot more dangerous complicated than we ever expected!), got to milk the goats, ride quads, help dry coffee beans and spend wonderful hours chatting and relaxing with the family and their friends. It was also an extra treat because of the warm fresh water showers!

I think we, especially Rufus, must have driven Andreas and Andrea crazy with all our questions about the farm and Costa Rica but they were so patient and generous with their time and their home. Thank you Jensen family for your hospitality!

The first morning we arrived Andreas put us to work milking the goats - so much fun! photo: A.Jensen

I loved the small details and thought that goes into every aspect of their farm and their home

Rufus peppering Andreas with (more) questions about farming with livestock

Andrea and Nicol spending some quality mother-daughter time in the kitchen

one of the delicious breakfast made with Andrea's own ricotta cheese

Andreas giving us the tour of his land

it's time to ride! photos: A.Jensen

Laura in full farm girl mode ;)

cutest little kid 

Rufus was a hit with the lady goats...

the resident stallion getting new shoes

resident mouse catcher

Road Trip

We spend most of our time outside of South Africa but, whenever we go home, we are always blown away by it's beauty. The Western Cape is especially beautiful for me, because of the diversity of the landscape and how quickly you can get from white sandy beaches to tropical forests to fynbos covered mountains or snow capped peaks overlooking perfectly manicured vineyard valleys.

Diana, my ridiculously generous best friend, loaned me her car for our entire three month stay, no strings attached. SERIOUSLY. I cannot begin to explain what a blessing that was and I don't know how I will ever thank her. When I returned it to her just before we left, she told me that she and Anton believed it was "going to a better home" where it would be "taken care of". Haha! I almost sprayed my coffee through my nose... I hope we did just that. Thank you, lady. x

We took a few days off from building Rufus' dad's house to visit friends up the coast and these are a few shots from the car on our way up to Mossel Bay.

Best Birthday

Rufus made it back from the UK just in time for my birthday. we took the day off boat work, he spoiled me rotten, we ate good food (chocolates count as food as far as we are concerned) and we didn't talk boat for the entire day!

we ended off the celebrations with a braai - lots of red meat, beer and most importantly good friends. you can take us out of South Africa but you can never take our will to braai. 

just when I thought the festivities were winding down our boatyard family suprised me with the BEST chocolate cake I have ever tasted. if I am honest I will admit that I'm more of a choc brownie kinda girl but this cake... No words!

its made by the owner of an excellent Italian restaurant in Port of Spain and just one slice of this heavenly creation is close to R100/$10. I think it's called "death by chocolate", layers of moist cake, mousse and ganache, topped with dark chocolate flakes and drizzled with rich chocolate sauce. I am officially converted from brownies.

Paola, Natali, Joao and Luigi thank you for my special cake! Celine, Tony, Marco and Jacomo, thank you for the food. Graeme, Suzie, Sacha and Julia, we missed you. And thank you to everyone for a great celebration, especially my main man Rufus x

Natali bringing the cake out

Natali bringing the cake out

me in shock

me in shock

joy

joy

Paola, Luigi, Celine, Tony, Marco and Joao laughing at me 

Paola, Luigi, Celine, Tony, Marco and Joao laughing at me 

time to blow out the candles and make a wish that had already come true :)

time to blow out the candles and make a wish that had already come true :)

Joao helping with the candles (he is also a choc-o-holic). the faster they go out the faster we can feast!

Joao helping with the candles (he is also a choc-o-holic). the faster they go out the faster we can feast!

birthday girl had to dish up for everyone

birthday girl had to dish up for everyone

 

 

left overs for breakfast

left overs for breakfast

Natali made a mini Melody - the perfect personal touch :)

Natali made a mini Melody - the perfect personal touch :)