Where are we now?

Hello, friends!

We are on the move again... and yes, I am sorry we have not been keeping better contact re. our movements. I have been struggling with updating the blog chronologically (as in going back 6 months and doing each post individually) vs. doing one post with a summary and bring you all up to date with where we are at right now - literally and figuratively. 

Over the last few of days I have tried the chronological option but it's taking so long, especially with the mostly slow and unreliable connections we have here in Central America. So, the obvious choice now is to do a roundup of the last 6 months and then I guess I can elaborate on each happening as time and wifi allow.

While still in Belize, working for Belize Saling Vacations, we received the phenomenal opportunity to star in a few ads for the launch of the new Kia Rio, which was shot on Jeju Island, in South Korea. When we returned we spent some time in Guatemala travelling and working on Melody in preparation to sell her and start working in the superyacht industry. While we were in Guatemala, Rufus had the opportunity to crew on a delivery of Phaedo, the Gunboat 66 that had just won the 2015 Transpac race, from Hawaii to Newport Beach. While Ruf was away I helped out with the BSV charter boats in the marina where we were staying, keeping an eye on them and doing some work on Melody as well.

Not long after Rufus' return from Phaedo we received a job offer on a private super yacht. Within 36hrs we moved Melody from one marina to another, hauled her out onto the hard stand, packed and boxed all our personal items to be shipped, put her up for sale and left for Newport, Rhode Island to join our new yacht!

We worked as 1st Mate (Rufus) and Chef/Stew (me) as part of 4 crew on 109ft sail yacht. We spent 3 months in the US and then delivered the boat south, to St Maarten, in December. We hosted the French owner and his family over December and early January, sailing the BVIs and St Barts for New Years. We returned to SXM in January and after a lot of thought, careful consideration and detailed financial calculations, we decided to return to Melody and complete our circumnavigation this year.

On February 7th we flew from St Maarten to Guatemala City to start the next chapter in our sailing expedition around the globe. Two weeks in Guatemala were spent cleaning Melody up (she took a bit of a beating during the rainy season in Guatemala) and of course, as always, doing the necessary maintenance and a few more upgrades!

An extra solar panel, new shade covers, a new inverter and one hardcore industrial sewing machine later we left Guatemala and sailed south, for 7 days, to Bocas del Toro off the coast of Panama.

So that's where we are right now: anchored in front of Bocas Town, in Panama, reuniting with special cruising friends and planning the next leg of our trip through the Panama Canal and into the Pacific!

July 2015: saying goodbye in Guatemala before Rufus left to Hawaii, to crew on the Gunboat 66 Phaedo

August 2015: Julia & Flo, friends from S/Y Tun

Melody on the hard in NanaJuana Marina, RioDulce

Fronteras, Guatemala

fixing travel bags for the trip to our new job in the US

Tracie & Steve from S/Y Saga Sea

September 2015: aboard S/Y Aventura in Newport, RI, as crew

Aventura's 44m air draft

Adrian takes over my galley and makes us dinner :)

one of the mansions on the Cliff Walk in Newport

Rufus helping the Doyle team to fit and test the new sails

this is what a $200,000.00 new custom mainsail from Doyle looks like

146ft in the air, at the top of the mast

aerial view of Aventura as Rufus keeps an eye onme from the bow seat below

December 2015: Aventura under way on delivery to St Maarten in the Caribbean

Engineer, Captain and Mate considering sail configs on the delivery from Newport RI to SXM

our view in the BVIs

Jan 2016: the boys doing chores on charter, while boss explored St Barths

Captain taking us through the bridge in St Maarten

Tweedle Dum and Tweedle Dee - also known as Adrian and Rufus

exiting the lagoon on the Dutch side of St Maarten

view of Fort Louis Marina from the fort on the hill

Feb 2016: one of our last days in SXM, at Grand Anse beach

Feb 2016: back in Guatemala, at NanaJuana Marina, making new floor boards for the master cabin

fitting some of our new shade covers

servicing the genoa furler before we set sail

leaving Livingstone in Guatemala, southbound to Bocas del Toro, Panama

this was Ruf's first real catch after the tuna off the SA coast in 2012

this guy hitched a ride and even came inside the boat to say hi

my watch spot when we weren't beating to windward...

March 2016: blogging in Bocas :)

Trinidad to Belize

Moving from country to country, working expat contracts and being relocated (or choosing to relocate) has taught us to let go of things and collect experiences instead. It sounds cheesy but it's true. You have to, especially when you cannot take all your precious possessions with you everywhere you go. 

What we are attached to though, is a space we can call home. It doesn't have to be fancy or stationary, it just has to be our space. At this time in our lives our home space is Melody - our trusty 38ft steel boat. After 4 months working in Belize, and having a brilliant time, we started feeling homesick for our space. We had been staying on whichever boat we were chartering at the time, living out of a backpack each, and that worked well because we were always working so there wasn't much time for anything else. And while that is liberating for a time, we started to miss having our space, for just us two, with our espresso cups and our fold up bikes.

So after another 2 charters, one over new years with Jen & Andy and the second with a brilliant family from Costa Rica, we decided at the last minute to fly to Trinidad and go and get our home! It was less than 24hrs from the minute we decided to fly that evening of Jan 24th to the moment we took off from Belize airport the next day. We are beyond blessed to have supportive (and flexible) employers who were all for us bringing Melody over to Belize. They took over some of our charters and gave us the 2 weeks off that we would need to prep our boat and complete the crossing of the Caribbean Sea.

We landed at Piarco International airport, in Port of Spain, and immediately took a taxi to the boatyard. We arrived quite late that night and there was no ladder to access Melody (it is at least 3m from the ground to her deck, when she stands on the chocks in the yard) so we grabbed a steel trestle from a neighbouring boat, positioned it under her bum ("stern" if you want to be proper) and dropped her swim ladder to climb the rest of the way with bags and all. It was a stretch but well worth it to finally be home! 

We worked like crazy people over the next three and a half days, replacing sails, engine maintenance, cleaning, provisioning, sat phone updates and travel admin, and by lunch time on the 29th we were back in the water! Clearing out was quick and easy and we motored over to Scotland Bay to organise the last few things before setting sail that late afternoon. 

The first day was great, we were so happy to be back on Melody that I think the joy cancelled out the motion and the discomfort of a monohull in open sea, after living on catamarans on flat water. The second day we started to feel it again but managed to acclimatise rather quickly, to the movement and the watches we had to do with just 2 people onboard. 

We did a total of 1,700nm, over 12 days, with 15-20kt winds at an average speed of 6kts. The first 10 days were the best, wind and speed wise, but then it all stopped 2 days from the coast of Belize. We were anticipating the drop in wind but it's still never a good feeling on a crossing. When the ocean is as smooth as glass, as far as your eye can see, and you are so close to land you can almost taste the spare ribs you are going to eat when you arrive, the frustration sets in and the engine has to be engaged.

Dont get me wrong, after 10 days in our steel washing machine it was lovely to have some calm but that almost always means that you are not moving and we had to get back to Belize ASAP for a charter we had scheduled. During the trip we sent my dad an sms from our satellite phone, every day, with our position, sailing conditions and how we were doing. Unfortunately somewhere along the  grapevine one of those messages got misinterpreted and we later found out that Rufus' mom had half of the Western Cape praying for our safe deliverance through a rough storm... Let me be clear, we never had dangerous weather. Large waves, good wind speeds and being gatvol of little sleep and constant movement can sometimes sound scary to those who don't sail but for us it was a good crossing. We were sleep deprived, yes, but in danger, never. We were always safe and sound :) Thank you for everyone's support though, we very much appreciate it (and thank you for following our journey on facebook via my dad's google map!).

At 4am on Jan 10th we sailed through Belize's barrier reef channel, together with a couple of Carnival cruise ships, and by 8am we were literally back on dry land as Melody ran aground in Cucumber Marina... It sounds worse than it was. It was actually quite funny to be honest. I'm not sure if it was because of the sleep deprivation or the sheer ridiculousness of the situation but we laughed a lot. Two friendly cruisers helped us take her alongside and, as one of them tried to tighten the stern line, we realised that her bum would have to stay stuck out into the marina waters for a little while longer as her keel had settled in the mud, due to low tide. So, for a couple of hours, we just had to jump from the deck to the land, instead of a small step over the rail, but eventually the water level rose and she floated up above the mud.

That was our first crossing, longer than 24hrs, with just the two of us. We have always had at least two other crew to share the responsibility and work with. This was a good trip though, now I understand why so many cruisers do the Pacific crossing with just two people (and an autopilot!). It's definitely doable with only two people. We get asked if it's boring doing a crossing but once you settle in and make the most of the situation it is very peaceful and relaxing. We did a lot of planning for the next leg of our journey during that trip, and created a few more exciting dreams for the the future too ;)

This is not a trick of the camera, that is literally the angle we were sailing at. Forget any workout you can think of on land - if you want six pack abs in a short space of time, do a crossing on a mono-hull. It is a permanent core workout, even in your sleep.

completely calm Caribbean Sea

our trusty old Suunto compass, still going strong after 30-odd years

the spinnaker pole goes out.

seafood buffet on deck - we had a lot of these little guys, and flying fish jump aboard or thrown on by rogue waves.

sunsets are always more breathtaking at sea, with no land lights and noise pollution.

nap time in between watches.

doing good speed.

skipper checking his sails.

I love this view.

the best storeage while under way. you culd probably also store a baby there and te boat's movement would rock it to sleep for you ;)

Entering the log details after every watch and then updating the route on our paper chart. We actually still haven't filled in the last entry, of when we arrived... it's a bad habit we have developed.

We had a few close calls with very large ships. This photo doesn't capture how close these fatties get. luckily our AIS helps with alarms and comms to correct collision courses. 

This is the route my dad mapped in real time as we crossed. The fourth pin from the east, under St Thomas, is a bit off (too high) but you can get a pretty accurate idea of our route. Thank you Daddy!

Melody

working on a boat refit is definitely not glamorous and it's not always fun but there are a few things that can put a smile on your face, other than a clean bilge... for us it's redesigning the boat name and our "boat cards". these small aesthetic elements make a big difference for us so this was exciting to see the new designs!

my fantastic, and super patient, best friend Diana (you might know her from Miss Moss) is always there when i need design help! she's ridiculously talented and awesome and she knows just what i mean when i don't even have a clue of what i'm talking about. 

this is the awesome result! thank you lady, you're the BEST.

the new paint job - we added a white boot stripe, a new wooden toe rail and of course the newly designed name :)

a lot of yachties have "boat cards". you meet so many different people along the way, in different countries and it's handy to have a card with all your contact info to give and to get. this is our new one, with a nifty contact no space so we can change it as we travel to different countries.


Life Lately

so, if you follow us on instagram or twitter, you know that we have finally left Trinidad and returned to Grenada! 

we spent a total of 3 months in Chaguaramas and we got a lot of great work done on Melody. we arrived back in Grenada almost 2 weeks ago and immediately started work on our first job in the yacht charter industry. we are preparing a fleet of sail boats for the upcoming Caribbean charter season, for Sail Grenadines. this will keep us busy till end October.

after we finish up in Grenada we have another amazing opportunity that will take us to Central America until end August 2015 - more on that a little later ;)

here are a few iPhone photos of life lately... my camera is till busted :/

last bit of Trinidad's headland as we left the island to sail North to Grenada

St. David's Harbour with Melody riiiiight in the back

the beach bar where we set up our office for the first week

every lunch break we swim off the boat  - this day we had turtles visiting Melody :) Rufus only managed to capture my "kiss face" though...

no South African boat is complete with a proper CHARCOAL BRAAI (gas does NOT count). we got this awesome "vintage" Force 10 barbeque in Trinidad from a wonderful New Zealand couple. we are ready for National Braai Day tomorrow, also know as Heritage Day in South Africa ;)