Brazil to Tobago

We finally completed our last before the paradise of the Caribbean! This one was extra special because we crossed the Equator!! As per Maritime tradition, we had a Line Crossing Ceremony or, more commonly know nowadays as, an Equator Party to celebrate. Wilhelm served as Neptune, the king of the sea, to give the boat "permission to cross" and Rufus, as our Captain, faced Neptune's interrogation in order to get his blessing. 

Viv and myself were the only two crew who had not yet crossed the equator and so we had to endure a mini initiation of ash baptism by the captain. After our ceremony was done we each took a turn to swim over the equator line (and wash off all the ashes) and then enjoyed a feast of beef lasagne and chocolate mousse for desert.

Wilhelm created a special drink called a "Stormy Petrel" which combines one part cachaca (a bit of Brazil) and two parts Amarula (a bit of Africa - thank you Sara for the awesome gift!). Rufus also treated us to some of his "flapcakes" (thick flapjacks) and fried sugar cinnamon bananas, DELICIOUS!

After about 13 days at sea with little wind we are happy to be at anchor in Pirate's Bay, off of Tobago. We're loving the island life!

Kate

First published on offtheline.co.za

Joâo Pessoa

After leaving Fernando de Noronha we made our way to mainland Brazil and arrived at the mouth of the Paraiba River after a two day sail. Realising that we had finally crossed the Atlantic, as we motored up the river to Jacare Village, just below João Pessoa, was an unbelievable feeling and after being here for over a week it still feels surreal.

After catching up on sleep and ensuring that our boat was going to stay put, Ruf and Kate took a week to do a little road tripping along the coast. Wil and I spent the week on the boat taking it easy and exploring the nearby sites and beaches. During our stay we were fortunate enough to meet another cruising couple, Peter  & Louise, who had just spent 7 months in the Amazon River! It was fascinating to hear the stories about their adventures as well as catching up with a fellow South African, Louise and learning about Trinidad, where Peter has lived for the last 30 years after immigrating from the UK.  We were spoilt rotten by their hospitality, Louise's incredible food and endless helpful tips. We hope to meet them again along the way for some more laughter filled evenings. Check out their website to see what they have been up to.

Kate and Rufus arrived 'home' on Sunday afternoon after a great trip and are staying on Melody for the next week. Wil and I arrived in Rio de Janeiro on Monday afternoon to meet my parents, who are travelling, as well as seeing family.

Viv

First published on offtheline.co.za

Second Leg

Leaving St Helena after a good break and numerous  anchor hassles, which we ended up losing in 30m deep water,  we were ready for the rest of the Atlantic. While in St Helena we had met up with a South African cruising family, aboard yacht Pasha, who were kind enough to lend us an anchor and suggested that we sailed the second leg together.  It was comforting having Pasha in the distance for the first 10days, after which we lost each other in the changing winds and as they headed for Fortaleza. We carried on to Fernando de Noronha, a Brazilian island 250nm off the mainland coast where we landed safely after 14 days at sea.

The second leg went incredibly well with the temperatures heating up as each day passed and the sea water reaching 26°C as we landed. The amazing weather allowed us to get our tans on, a necessity before being able to grace any Brazilian beach. While the warm water made for some efficientbathing which entailed us jumping off deck,  while still moving,  and swimming for dear life to grab the ladder at the back (there was a safety line before anyone has a heart attack). I must say there is nothing quite like swimming in the middle of the Atlantic - try it if you ever have the opportunity.

With our appetites back in order with ate like kings during the entire journey. The boys caught two Dourado simultaneously and a metre long Spanish Mackerel during the trip, from which we ate a couple of amazing meals. Wil was on it with his bread making and even surprised us with some fresh scones for breakfast one morning. Ruf made us all very happy when he produced a malva pudding and Kate made us some awesome traditional "boere kos" with lamb curry, caramelised carrots and bean and potato mash...mmm,  definitely one of the best meals we had. I attempted a swiss roll which resulted in a disastrous caramel sandwich cake thing - for which I will be blaming the oven.

 Viv

First published on offtheline.co.za

St Helena Island

Half way across the Atlantic, between South Africa and Brazil, is a little island called St. Helena. It’s a popular stop fo
r yachts doing a crossing (it is only accessible by boat). After 14 days at sea we could almost taste the beers and burgers waiting for us on land. We were beyond excited (and relieved) to arrive at our first international port.
 
Rufus was the only one who had visited the island 10 years before so the rest of us didn’t quite know what to expect. From the sea it definitely doesn’t look like your typical “island getaway”. There is an almost constant cap of cloud over the dull rock face that surrounds it and the (only) anchorage in James Bay is notorious for mooring issues and anchor trouble.
 
The first thing we did was take a FRESH WATER SHOWER!! After two weeks of only being able to wash in freezing salt water the shower (even though it was also cold – solar heating doesn’t work so well when there is so much cloud cover…) was heaven sent! Next stop was Anne’s place for a beer and a burger.
 
Anne’s Place is well known amongst yachties and the locals, especially around the time of the Governor’s Cup. It’s in a great spot and the décor is festive but if you are looking for good food, reasonable prices and friendly efficient service The Consulate Hotel/La Concorde deli is the place to go. This place became a regular haunt for us. Hazel, the owner and a fellow South African, was one of the kindest, friendliest and most generous people we met on the island.
 
We spent a week in St. Helena and we used the time to tour  the Napoleonic sites, visited the oldest living tortoise on earth, learned about the island’s history at the local museum, explored the coastline’s Naval defence ruins and, of course climbed the 699 steps of Jacobs Ladder - a must for everyone who visits the island.
 
The locals are very friendly and the island is so safe that you can leave your shopping in one grocery store while you go about the rest of your business around town and then collect it again afterwards. The town itself is very quiet during the week and the “Saints”, as the locals call themselves, only really venture out on weekends, to socialise and dance the nights away at local bars & pubs, or when the RMS St. Helena visits the island with supplies from South Africa and tourists from the UK & S.A.
 
St. Helena was a great experience. We are all glad we got the chance to visit this extraordinary community, rich in history and hospitality. The friendly relaxed pace of this island's life was just what we needed to rest up after a taxing two weeks at sea. We can’t wait to see how the business & tourism develops once the airport is completed in 2016.
 
Kate

First published on offtheline.co.za

Atlantic Days

We have just finished our first leg of the Atlantic! Aftertwo weeks at seathat cold beer(s) is sure gonnago down well! With regards to the crossing, let me begin with : what an incredible experience. After I've said  that,  I must admit that I had envisioned it rather differently. Something more like blue skies, calm warm water and copious amounts of sea life. It was almost like that, except for the blue skies and calms seas bit. I hadn't realised how much the boat would actually be moving.  I mean obviously I knew, but IT MOVES ALL THE TIME. Sleeping, cooking and doing pretty much anything, is a challenging task. I was on the verge of throwing the dishes across the saloon on anumber of occasions in pure frustration. Everything ends up on the floor anyway.

Being outin the middle of the Atlantic makes up for all these things. There is nothing more peaceful then the sound of a boat gliding through the water while being pushed by the wind. There is a vast expanse of nothingness but in that emptiness is an abundance of life. I couldn't believe how many birds we saw and how they have been with us for the entirety of the journey. Travelling by sail boat is travelling in slow motion. It gives you time to think, to enjoy and embrace all that is happening around you.

The cold weather and rough seas have made the journey a challenging one but one that I would do again in a second. We plan on staying on St Helena Island for about a week and I hope in that time the Atlantic chills out so that the next leg of the crossing consists of all those wonderful things that filled me dreams. 

Viv

First published on offtheline.co.za