Sayulita: surfing, shopping and where we stayed

This was our first stay in Mexico together - Rufus had never been except for our bus transit through from Belize to Cuba (Dec 2014) and back but I visited areas on the Caribbean side, on a weekly basis, while I was working on cruise ships after my studies. The "surfing" village of Sayulita is on the Pacific coast in the province of Nayarit, an hr or so drive north from Puerto Vallarta. We flew in to PV from Ft Lauderdale and then took the bus from there.
Luckily for us it was off-season so it was quiet and relatively peaceful except for a few nights when the "gringos" got rowdy in a couple of the nearby bars. We spent the first 3 days exploring the town and nearby beach on foot and then we rented a car and visited a few beaches further on where Rufus could surf while I made friends with the other surfer widows, read and took photos.
There is a vibrant design and craft scene - thankfully not in the typical cheesy (and boring) touristy way though - which we thoroughly enjoyed. We got to observe some of the artisans at work, speak to a couple of the expat designers and get some insight into their collaborations with the locals and how they have integrated centuries old traditional Mexican craft with their modern design aesthetic . My two favourites were Evoke and Artefakto but there are so many more to choose from with an almost overwhelmingly huge variety of beautiful items to choose from, no matter what your budget.
Everything was within walking distance of our little "boutique hotel", a myriad of different options for delicious food and cocktails, some live music and evening strolls through the cobblestone streets. We stayed in, what the owners describe as an "artistic apartment" in the heart of the village, 2 min walking distance from the square. The owners, Lucy and José, also own La Esperanza which is a "health food Café, Restaurant & Bar that creates and serves conscious and nutritious food for the health of their community". It's located directly across the street from their accommodations but unfortunately we were never able to sample their food as it was closed for the slow season. The accommodation itself was lovely and I was super snap happy with my new Fuji, as you will see below. We booked through AirBnB and you can see my review here.

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Behind the Scenes with Kia Motors

In my last post I briefly mentioned how we got the opportunity to travel to South Korea for 10 days with Kia Motors last year. In this post I have included another one of the marketing videos (the more adventurous of the 3, with surfing and zip-lining etc) and some behind the scenes photos showing what it was like in front of camera and our experience of the amazing country. 

For the long version you can read my account of the trip below, after the video. For the short version scroll down to the pics and just skim through the captions ;)

We arrived in Korea after 5 days travelling from Belize via Guatemala and the US on water taxis, tiny 6 seater planes, chicken busses, international flights, high speed trains and more! We were exhausted but so flippen excited to be in Seoul!

We were beyond starving and so hopped up on natural "yay-were-in-a-new-country!" adrenaline, caffeine and whatever kicks in to combat sleep deprivation that after meeting up with Timmy and Faan, the creative and technical brains of the operation, we had TWO dinners that night! Let me use this opportunity to mention that Korean food is phenomenal. It blew our minds. But more on that later.

The next morning the four of us flew to Jeju Island where we met up with Hyejin, from Kia Motors and Sunny, our local guide and driver for the duration of our trip. The first thing we did was get lunch, of course, and again we were blown away by the array of local seafood dishes served.

The whole trip lasted a total of 10 days and we packed every day full of adventurous activities and, of course, a lot of driving around the island's most beautiful spots. We landed just in time to avoid a typhoon which had grounded all domestic flights right up till our arrival. We were to discover the next day that the typhoon had also taken most of the warm turquoise water with it and replaced it with freezing murky liquid ice. Why is this worth mentioning, you ask? Well, Rufus and I were scheduled to do a lot of swimming, snorkelling and waterfall jumping over the next 9 days and when the water feels as if it is of a hypothermia-inducing temperature and you have to keep re-shooting scenes because your chattering teeth and inappropriate nipple stands are ruining the shots it becomes rather important (let me also mention that after so much time living in tropical climates, any water temp below 26'C is "freezing" to us... ). Also, a lot of the aerial shots depended on the clear weather and even clearer water but Timmy did a great job of making everything work despite Mother Nature's curve ball.

Our guide, Sunny, took care of us like a caring mother hen and she fed us till we felt like we were going to burst! I asked her one day, "What are the three things that Korean's like to do most in their spare time?" Her reply was "Eat, drink and then eat some more." An so we did! More eating than drinking though, we were there for work after all...

Sun and Hyejin, from Kia Motors, were incredible hosts. We spent time with them at the start of the trip and at the end, after we finished and returned to Seoul, the day before we flew out. They are both so passionate about their country, their culture, their heritage, their traditions and of course their food! Both were extremely warm and friendly, welcoming and generous with their time, answering all of our questions and going the extra mile to make us feel at home.

Rufus and I have visited countries that are classified as "first world" before but never have we encountered a country like this. It is so clean you can eat off the streets. Everything is efficient and everyone is always genuinely keen to help. Rufus and I were welcomed at 5 star hotels as if we were VIP guests, and not in fake way, in a warm and genuine "we don't judge a book by it's cover" kind of way. Because believe me, after 5 days of travelling, no showers, little sleep, part of which we had our luggage strapped to the roof of a chicken bus across Guatemala and Belize during a tropical downpour, we did not look or smell like 5 star VIP guests...

The very first thing we observed upon arrival was the selfie culture. I am not exaggerating when I say that easily 85% of all the people we saw carried selfie sticks with them. Permanently. I thought I had seen it all when Rufus and I witnessed locals photographing themselves with lettuce and spinach in the veggie section of Zambian supermarkets, but Korea tops that. Every moment, any location is an excuse to take a selfie and no one is shy about it. It is amazing to watch.

It also helps their selfie culture that the Koreans sense of style and design is impressive to say the least. I wish I had had more time to capture the street fashion. Couples coordinating their outfits and managing to execute it in a way that made you wished they would dress you too. Korea is also known for its groundbreaking skincare and cosmetics industry and when you are there you can see why - the Korean woman know what they are doing when it comes to beauty, their skin is so luminescent I kept having the urge to touch their faces to see if it was real. Hashtag "skingoals".

Timmy, Faan, Rufus and I stuck out like sore thumbs everywhere we went. I think I only saw 2 other westerners in the 10 days we were there. Never once did we get ogled or made to feel "out" though, as so often happens when Rufus and I travel in Africa, Central and South America (I'm pasty white & blonde and he has striking eyes which strangers regularly stare at and like comment on).

The other interesting thing I noticed is how happy the Koreans are, especially the families. We saw a lot of young families, in the airports, in the streets, malls and restaurants. We never once saw kids throwing tantrums or disgruntled parents having to dish out discipline. The parents (and grandparents) were always smiling, happily and actively engaging with the children, not grumpy and scowling like we so often see in the US or SA.

And then theres the food. This my friends was our favourite part. There are rarely occasions when we are consistently, day after day, so stuffed full that we are in pain but we still want more! The food in South Korea is irresistible and the team at Kia gave Sunny strict instructions to feed us well, and so she did! The variety and the festivity and the traditions and history and joy that surrounds meal times pulls you in till you almost can't anymore. It is such a fundamental part of their culture that if you don't engage (not that you wouldn't want to) you are in danger of seriously offending your host(s). The Koreans, in our experience, love to share and this is most evident during their meal times.

Overall Korea was a 10 out of 10 for us. Thank you Hyejin, Sun and Kia Motors for hosting us and thank you to Timmy and Faan for including us in your project. South Korea, we will be back!

Faan, Rufus, Kate, Timmy and Sun (Kia Motors International) - our first night in South Korea, Seoul. Photo credit: Sun Hur

we were so hungry that we had two dinners on our first night, this was our first and then the second with Sun, from Kia (above) - Seoul

after 5 days of travelling across 4 countries and 2 oceans, with 6 different types of transport, we were beyond excited to see our hotel bed! Lotte City Hotel, Gimpo Airport, Seoul.

On the second day we flew from the capital city, Seoul, to Jeju Island

above & below: our first meal on Jeju  - L-R: Hyejin from Kia Motors, Timmy, Faan. front L-R: Kate, Rufus, Sunny our driver and guide

the aftermath...

our nifty new Kia Rio in my favourite colour, blue :)

Rufus at the wheel

Timmy's drone, ready to capture the aerial shots

first day shooting at Jeongbang Waterfall

Rufus discussing the waves with local surfers - the board he used was rented from the guy on the right, who we met in the parking lot!

amped to get in the water!

Korean's are very conscious of taking care of their skin and protecting it from the sun - this guy was filming Rufus in the water

watching Rufus and the charter boats

intricate murals along the water's edge at Jungmun Beach

interesting seafood for sale along the promenade

Faan operating the drone camera behind us

Faan & Timmy setting the camera up on our bonnet

sunrise shoot at the beach - Gujwa-eup

morning walks - Gujwa-eup

Gujwa-eup

Gujwa-eup

the food was one of our favourite parts of the trip - the Korean cuisine is phenomenal!

enough food for the five of us...??!!

we snacked on the delicious mandarins found everywhere on the island

how many Faans can you fit in a Kia Rio boot?

how many Faans can you fit in a Kia Rio boot?

Rufus' close-up

the things you have to do for the perfect shot...

the boys taking a roadside coffee break at Beach Boys

faithful to Kia

overlooking the crater of Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak) - UNESCO World Heritage Site

Seongsan Ilchulbong - Sunrise Peak

baby cheeks wasn't keen on a selfie...

view from Seongsan Ilchulbong - Sunrise Peak

its a wrap! Sunny, Faan, Timmy, Rufus, Kate & Sun celebrating the last day of shooting on the charter yacht. Photo: Timmy Henny

Hamdeok Beach

Hamdeok Beach

Hamdeok Beach

Italian pizza and pasta in Korea

lunch at Hamdeok Beach - everything on the table was raw

raw crab

mosaics along the Hamdeok Beach promenade

a young fisherman at Hamdeok Beach

Hamdeok Beach

boys playing games... they all won fireworks which we set off on the beach later that night

Hamdeok Beach

even the pets wear make-up in Korea and this cutie took a shine to Faan!

watching the rugby on Faan's iPhone. Photo Credit: Faan Rabie

our last evening on the island. Photo Credit: Faan Rabie

Surfing Kusapín

In the last post I mentioned that during our island hopping trip we stopped at Bluefield Lagoon and did a short overland walk to the well-known surf spot of Kusapín.

Two years ago, while we were in Trinidad, we met a Brazillian guy by the name of Manuel Alves. We became fast friends and when we came to Panama he offered his help and connections, as he also has his sailboat based in Bocas del Toro. He is away working right now but he kindly loaned Rufus his surfboard for our time here, as we gave away all our boards in Guatemala, when we thought we would not be returning to Melody last year :(

There wasn't much swell and the waves were teeny when we arrived, but that didn't stop the four of us from having fun in the water anyway!

Here are a few photos from the day and the local indians from the Comarce Ngäbe-Buglé Indian Reserve on the island.