Bike Trip Day 3: Panajachel to Pastores

On the third and last day we took the first water taxi we could get, across to the South West shore, to San Pedro La Laguna. This is known as the "party" town on the lake and has a lot more life to it. It lies at the base of one of the volcanos, from which it takes it's name. There are lovely restaurants, open air bars, coffee shops, smoothie bars, markets with beautiful locally handmade goods, great places to stay with breathtaking lake views and a multitude of Spanish schools for those who want to learn the language from the locals.

After a good coffee, a bite to eat and a brief chat with some cruiser friends also visiting from the Rio, we returned to Panajachel, also known as the "tourist town", to continue the bike tour. After collecting the bike from the pink hotel, we got back on the road at around 12h30, to return to Antigua via Patzún, Patzicía (Chimaltenango) and Pastores. We descended the beautiful highlands, waded through a few more streams and rivers, zipped along a highway where we had to pull over because the rain was so heavy it felt like we were being pelted with nails, and then finally into the peaceful town of Pastores.

Pastores is known for handmade leather boots and I promise you, you will not be disappointed. The main street is lined with many small shops, filled with all the colours and styles you could imagine. Every boot is hand made and you can watch the cobbler at work. They range from about Q300 - Q400 (USD 38-50) for a pair and worth every penny. The craftsmanship is superb and I am almost certain they will last you a lifetime. I still want to go back and get a pair for myself. When we return to Central America, after our circumnavigation is complete, I will go back and buy a few pairs, for sure.

Ten minutes drive from Pastores we were back in Antigua and we were pretty bummed when we rode back into town and realised our bike adventure was over. It is one of the best trips we have ever done and well worth the freezing altitudes, icy rain and the painfully bruised behinds. If you are ever in the area go down to Moto Tours and rent yourself a bike or take a guided tour with one of their experienced local guides. The rental for 3 days was $200 and the fuel for approx 500km was a total of $20. So worth it!

waiting for our water taxi across Lake Atitlán to San Marcos

one of the majestic volcanos that surrounds the lake

cheap local hand crafted leather goods

supposedly antique carvings

view to the lake as we walked down from the village

tuk tuks waiting to take the tourists from the water taxi

water taxi rank

waiting for the lancha to Panajachel

arriving at Panajachel


walking from the water taxi terminal to the 

pink hotel, to collect our motorbike

back down the mountains

talking with one of the leather artisans in Pastores

cobbler's tools

it is cheaper to buy the finished boots than than a piece of leather!

legendary Singer machine. These things never die...

incorporating the local hand woven traditional fabrics

hand made saddle

that is genuine python skin...

Texans probably love this place ;)

cowgirls and indians

riding back into Antigua

bikes and scooters are a very popular, and inexpensive, mode of transport for both locals and visitors across Guatemala

Thanking José, the owner of Moto Tours, for a trusty bike and great trip

Bike Trip Day 1: Antigua to El Paredon

Apart from circumnavigating in our own sail boat we are also keen land travellers and we have a kind of overland bucket list to use all the kinds of transport available. The one we have always had high on the list is doing a bike trip and the right opportunity presented itself in Antigua.

While exploring the town on foot, we came across MotoTours, a motorbike rental shop. After a chat with the owner, and discussing our budget options over a good cup of coffee and a pastry, we decided to take the opportunity and do an unguided (less expensive and more adventurous/exciting for us) trip to the Pacific coast, Lake Atitlán and then back to Antigua.

We packed very light (one small backpack for the two of us), some water, a few snacks, our minimal camera gear, our sailing windbreakers and a questionable hand drawn map from José, the owner of MotoTours. The first day was half off road/forest/rivers/rural village areas and the other half highway. Neither of us had ridden in a very long time, and for such an extended period, so we had to get used to having bruised bums and inner thighs all over again.

Apart from our battered backsides it was a brilliant day. We started off in the town square, in the middle of historical Antigua, and drove South via Siquinqlá to El Paredon on the Pacific Coast. We spent the night at Driftwood Surf Camp. As soon as we arrived we immediately changed from our hot sticky dusty riding clothes into our swim gear and made a beeline for the swimming pool and bar! Over a well-deserved ice cold beer we reunited with our friend Matthieu, whom we had met a few weeks earlier on the Rio while he was sailing with Nike of White Spot Pirates.

Rufus went for a surf and then played some beach volleyball with our fellow surf campers as the sun set over the sea.The rest of the evening was spent on the deck, the roof of the surf house, enjoying dinner and drinks with new friends, chatting and laughing together as a tropical thunderstorm threatened to wash us all away. Good memories.

our first bike trip together, since before we got married 8 years ago!

about 2 hours into the trip, before the "numb bum" set in...

no more seats available? no problem, just jump on the back!

sharing the trail with hundreds of butterflies

happy dance

we cleared 7 (small) rivers in total on day 1

back in "civilization", after most of the off-road section - so.much.dust.and.bug.guts.on.my.face...

pacific coast beach

waves on offer at the surf camp

sunset volley ball challenge with our fellow surf campers

morning moves with the local stray pup and his bright orange crab companion (can you see him?)

pool with the bar hiding behind the bush on the left

Rufus recording the route and trip's details before we set off on the second day of the trip

hand drawn (seriously off scale) map from the bike rental owner

surf camp cat

my favourite spot: boat swing/hammock

neighbouring plot of land for sale - you too can share in this surfing paradise!

Tourbiking through Guatemala

It's been a while, I know! But we have something special for you... This, dear friends, is our first real "edited" video!!

This was Rufus' baby and, for his first time editing like this, on a new (very basic) program, I think it's pretty rad (I've watched it about 20 times and laughed my ass of at our super glamorous selves). 

We rented a bike and took a 3 day trip through part of Guatemala; from Antigua to the Pacific coast, inland to Lake Atitlan and back to Antigua. We rode through rivers, along black sandy beaches, on winding highways in the rain, through forests and plantations, froze our backsides off at the top of volcanos and eventually back down to the historic cobblestone streets of Antigua.

I will do a post on Antigua in the next few days, with photos and details of the rest of our trip and the time we spent in Antigua itself.

Enjoy the clip and let us know what you think!