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a brand new life

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Grenada, Caribbean Sea
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a brand new life

  • blog
  • about
  • s/y melody
  • off the line
  • archive
  • disclaimer

Fly Burgers

February 9, 2014 kate brand

in an earlier post i included a photo of what looks like grey smoke coming out of the lake surface. the "smoke" is actually bajillions of lake flies, mating in mid air, during the rainy season. the BBC: Planet Earth video excerpt above explains this phenomenon a little better.

another interesting byproduct of this "cloud" is a local delicacy, known as "fly burgers". unfortunately i couldn't get a shot of them at the Nkhata Bay market but they are basically made up of a whole lot of tiny flies mushed together into a large black "burger patty".

the flies are normally caught alive, whizzing in the air, with nets but a lot of the time it's easier for the women who make them to sweep dead flies off the floor. hearing this we decided to skip the local culinary delight, juuuuust in case we got a floor fly burger...

In Malawi Tags Lake Malawi, Nkhata Bay, overland, road trip, Toyota, Prado TX
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Nkhata Kids

January 31, 2014 kate brand

we stayed on at Aqua Africa for a few days after the dive course finished. on one of those days we took a drive up into the hills of Nkhata Bay to explore a bit. some sections of the drive were a bit dodgy 4x4 styles but totally worth it.

we discovered a few secluded rural villages quite high up. we opened up the sun roof and i took most of the shots standing on the seats, over the top of the land cruiser. the local kids were quite amused to see a mzungu girl sticking out the roof of the vehicle and enjoyed playing up for the camera.

this was definitely the most fun i had taking photos during our Malawi trip.

In Malawi Tags Nkhata Bay, Lake Malawi, road trip, overland, Toyota, Prado TX
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Aqua Africa

January 30, 2014 kate brand
Nkhata Bay_Lake Malawi (39).jpg

the cafe at Aqua Africa

PADI certified scuba diving facility

the view from our private balcony

the "Dive Deck" - our breakfast and beer spot

Carlsberg - the only beer allowed to be produced locally in Malawi

the evening view, across the bay, to our favourite dinner spot Mayoka Village

local coffee from Mzuzu to start our first day diving

swarms of lake flies - millions of minute flies that emerge from the lake to mate and die during rainy season

the Edmund Rhodes - a gift to the local municipality, many years ago, to be used as a mobile clinic. unfortunately it is mainly used as a diving spot for the local kids. 

Rufus and our dive instructor Rob, on the last day of the PADI Open Water 1 course

Rufus off to do his final qualifying dive

Nkhata Bay_Lake Malawi (36).jpg
Nkhata Bay_Lake Malawi (43).jpg

an old canon camera discovered at the bottom of the bay

an interestingly shaped weaver's nest outside our window

an interestingly shaped weaver's nest outside our window

a pied kingfisher perched on the tip of the kayak, waiting for his next meal

birthday boy - he turned 30 the next day

birthday boy - he turned 30 the next day

we spent the first week of our Malawi roadtrip at Aqua Africa, in Nkhata Bay. they are a PADI certified facility and employ brilliant instructors from around the world. ours was Rob, a Canadian guy who has been diving for over 15yrs, since he was 12.

unfortunately i got an ear infection half way through our course so i had issues with equalising and reverse blocks. this meant i had to sit out the last two qualifying dives for the Open Water certification. i finished the theory and exam so i have a year to do the remaining dives to complete my OW. Rufus finished all his dives and went on do an additional night dive with the local dolphin fish, on his 30th birthday.

Aqua Africa and their employees are super chilled and it was a great place to relax and unwind after the insane year we had just been through. the accommodation is comfortable, with an en suite bathroom & balcony, and probably the most reasonably priced in the area. if you do a dive course they give you a discounted rate of $25 per room, per night, instead of $35.

as mentioned in the last post, the water is insanely warm & clear and it is hard to keep yourself on dry land. the diving and visibility is great and we also swam out to and explored the old abandoned boat, the Edmund Rhoades (see pic above).

we highly recommend this spot if you have never dived before and would like to learn. it's a lot easier (and cheaper than most places) to learn here as there is obviously no salt water & sea currents to tire you out and you can stay under for longer because of the warmer water. if you don't want to dive its still a great place to visit as their beach is private & peaceful but they're still walking distance from the local market, restaurants and bars.

In Malawi Tags Nkhata Bay, Aqua Africa, scuba diving, road trip, Toyota, Prado TX
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Nkhata Bay

January 29, 2014 kate brand

driving into Nkhata Bay: bicycles are one of the most popular & cheapest modes of transport for the locals

our first view of the lake as we drove over the mountain

one of the small coves that make up Nkhata Bay, a base for the local fishing trade

Chikale Beach, home to Njaya Lodge

a traditional dugout, or log boat, used by most of the local fishermen

cottages at Njaya Lodge

beach bar

Chikale Beach

Nkhata Bay was our first stop in Malawi and a welcome change from the dirty, dustiness of Zambia. Malawi, although it is much poorer than Zambia, is a lot cleaner, not nearly as dusty, the roads are in excellent condition by African standards, and the people are genuinely friendly. they are super amped to have visitors in their beloved country. for example, where the cops at the Zambian roadblocks are aloof or grumpy, especially if you are an expat, the Malawian cops are excited to chat to you and enthusiastically advise you on the best spots to visit.

coming from Zambia, the first thing we noticed, besides the better roads and friendlier locals, is that the women don't wear wigs (almost all the women in Zambia wear wigs, even in the bush) and are far less obsessed with fashion, make up and image - the Malawian women are more natural and in our opinion all the more beautiful for it. the other big difference for us was that there is a lot less obvious corruption - a welcome change.

back to the bay: there are various beaches and coves that make up Nkhata Bay. the lake is so huge and the beaches so beautiful that its easy to forget you are in a landlocked country and not on a tropical island in the Carribean.

the water was so warm that sometimes you don't even feel it, going in. it's also so clear you can spend hours watching the fish and other abundant lake life swarming around your ankles and in the rock pools. in addition to the water creatures, the lake has a huge variety bird life. our favourites were the Fish Eagles and Pied Kingfishers. you can go on paid tours to view these birds of prey but they are so common that it's not necessary, in my opinion - just spend enough time on the beach and you'll see them in action.

In Malawi Tags Nkhata Bay, 4x4, road trip, Toyota, Prado TX, overland
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